The Lamu archipelago, a cluster of islands off Kenya's northeastern coast, is undergoing a transformation. While its remote location and historical factors have kept it largely untouched, new projects are now emerging to confront the ecological and financial hurdles facing these vibrant islands. This report details a journey through this captivating region, revealing how sustainable tourism and dedicated conservation efforts are safeguarding its rich Swahili heritage and fragile ecosystems. From ancient dhows to pioneering marine reserves, the story unfolds, showcasing a community committed to preserving its unique identity amidst modern challenges.Navigating the Tides of Change: Lamu's Resilience and Renewal
Discovering the Untouched Beauty of Lamu
The Lamu archipelago, a collection of roughly sixty islands situated off Kenya's northeast coast, has remained largely undeveloped, a consequence of its isolation and past conflicts with neighboring Somalia. However, with improved security fostering a decade and a half of peace, the region is now gaining recognition. Travelers venturing beyond the well-trodden paths of Lamu island will encounter numerous commendable initiatives and a wealth of exploration opportunities. The author's journey commenced in Lamu Town, the county capital, a place where pure Swahili culture thrives, influenced by seven centuries of Portuguese, British, German, and Omani rule. It was here that the author embarked on the NaiSabah, a modern super dhow, for a five-day sailing expedition across the archipelago.
A Return to the Ancient Maritime Routes and New Challenges
Having previously explored this area by sea for two consecutive winters, following the venerable maritime trade route connecting Arabia and East Africa, the author was drawn back not only by the breathtaking marine life and pristine coastlines but also by a desire to witness firsthand the new conservation and regeneration projects addressing the challenges faced by this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The archipelago, stretching approximately 100 kilometers, boasts a delicate ecosystem of creeks, channels, and mangrove forests, supporting isolated fishing communities. Yet, it is threatened by climate change, overfishing, population growth, and industrial development. The author was particularly keen to observe how tourism is increasingly contributing to the preservation of these vital natural environments.
Echoes of the Past: A Glimpse into Kiwayu Island's Resurgence
One of the initial stops on the journey was a small settlement near Mkokoni on the Kenyan coast, opposite Kiwayu island. From a simple banda perched on a dune, the author overlooked two bays, observing surfers on the Indian Ocean's windward side and the tranquil, sun-dappled sea on the leeward. Crabs scuttled nearby as the gaze swept across the mangroves to a landscape of dunes adorned with succulents, grasses, and date palms, marking the beginning of the 270-square-kilometer Kiunga Marine National Reserve. This reserve is a haven for diverse wildlife, including leatherback and hawksbill turtles, snappers, spiny lobsters, kingfishers, egrets, and migratory shorebirds. Despite the bustling holiday season on nearby Lamu island, the shore remained remarkably deserted. This serene yet isolated beach was once home to a prestigious eco-lodge, established by Alfredo and Lisa Palizzoli, which closed about 15 years ago following an attack by Al Shabaab. Now, their daughter, Simone, and her safari-specialist husband, George Moorhead, plan to revive it as an exclusive, understated lodge hotel in early 2026. This new venture will complement their existing establishment, The Baobabs of Kitangani, located across the lagoon on Kiwayu island, renowned for its 'barefoot luxury' concept. These, along with Mike's Camp further up the coast, represent the only comfortable accommodations available on the island.
Sustainable Tourism: A Model for Economic and Cultural Flourishing
Mike Kennedy of Mike's Camp, an early explorer of the region over three decades ago, shared insights into the area's appeal. He noted that while some visitors might not fully grasp the "rough-luxe" ambiance, few could dispute the allure of enjoying fresh oysters from the rocks of a secluded bay, accompanied by Tabasco and chilled white wine. George Moorhead emphasized that this form of tourism has a minimal environmental impact and actively supports the local economy and culture rather than depleting it. He explained that the resurgence of independent travelers has revitalized employment opportunities for waiters, cooks, and boatmen, roles that had diminished for nearly a decade. Additionally, it has generated work for makuti makers in Pate island and Faza, who produce roofing materials, and has opened new markets for local shops. The author experienced this firsthand when, shortly after the NaiSabah anchored, local women arrived in canoes from nearby villages, selling fresh pineapples and warm-water rock oysters. The group also purchased lobster and gathered seaweed, which was deep-fried with local salt. Apart from alcohol and staples like butter and cheese, all provisions were sourced locally, allowing for five memorable days of living off the land and sea.
Exploring the Symbolic Depths and Natural Grandeur
The NaiSabah, despite offering three comfortable, air-conditioned cabins, provided the author with the preferred experience of sleeping on deck under the vast, star-studded sky, in keeping with the timeless tradition of these converted working dhows. One evening, stretched on the bowsprit netting, the author scanned the heavens for the new moon. The inverted crescent cradling a single star, known as the Eye of the Dhow, is Lamu's emblem and a potent symbol of Swahili identity. It also adorned the prow of the NaiSabah, serving as a good luck charm for those sailing on her. The author reflected on a personal connection, sporting a similar vintage piece of jewelry, wondering if this keepsake, acquired during the 1970s hippie trail to Lamu, was a personal talisman drawing them back to these islands across the decades. On the final morning, luck turned as the dhow became stranded on a sandbar due to the receding tide. While awaiting the return of the waters, the author contemplated the persistent challenges of the archipelago, with its shifting mudflats, counter tides, and winds, as formidable now as they were for centuries of traders and sailors who relied on the annual monsoon winds (kaskazi and kuzi) for navigation. This year, the kaskazi was late, preventing the crew from fully showcasing the dhow's magnificence. By the time the monsoon arrived, bringing powerful, roaring winds, the author had already disembarked the NaiSabah at Manda island and settled into Manda Bay Lodge, the archipelago's most exclusive accommodation.
Battling the Elements and Embracing Sustainable Living
At Manda Bay Lodge, the author braced for the incoming storm, as the sea unleashed powerful waves against the elevated stone platforms of the bedroom bandas. Awake, the author felt the wind tug fiercely at the tented structures and swell the mosquito nets around the four-poster bed, feeling as though they might detach and disappear into the expanse. Two decades prior, on the author's first visit, this place had felt otherworldly, a cluster of beach shacks shimmering in the heat haze. However, under the passionate guidance of the current Kenyan-born owners, the Roberts and Dyer families, it has been transformed into a refined beach sanctuary and an environmental conservation initiative. The lodge is free from concrete or plastic, preserving the simple joy of living harmoniously with nature. Unobstructed views of green and blue stretched to the horizon. The accommodations were comfortable and unobtrusive, illuminated by kerosene lamps and low-wattage solar lighting to avoid disturbing nesting turtles. With daybreak, the straits transitioned from a turbulent gray to a tranquil calm. Sunlight streamed into the bedroom, and the melodious call of the bulbul further sweetened the air, signaling an opportune moment to explore the adjacent Manda Toto island.
Underwater Wonders: Coral Reef Restoration and Community Engagement
The low spring tide revealed intricate rock pools and vast stretches of compacted sand, with no other human in sight. Along the shoreline, acacia trees and ancient baobabs gave way to Indian tamarisks, interspersed with captivating coral sculptures. Yet, the ocean's depths beckoned. The author snorkeled over nearby reefs, severely impacted by the 2024 El Niño. Here, the work of the Ocean Trust charity was evident. Co-founded by Angus Roberts, son of the Manda Bay Resort owners, the charity collaborates with the hotel on a project to revitalize the declining reefs along the East African coast. Eager to learn more, the author conversed with Angus and his wife, Viola, also a co-founder of the charity, both of whom grew up snorkeling and diving around Manda. They have been engaging with local villages to manage and restore the reefs, which have suffered from overfishing. Fishing practices, such as dragging nets along the seabed and breaking coral to extract octopuses or walking on reefs at low tide, have led to a gradual deterioration of their health. Angus addressed this by directly communicating with the villagers. He explained that coral reefs thrive on symbiotic relationships, and removing even a single fish can trigger a cascade of effects. However, fishing has become increasingly challenging as a livelihood, prompting the community's willingness to embrace alternative solutions. This "something else" includes a ban on all fishing within a 100-hectare zone designated as a future marine reserve. In exchange, a conservancy fee will be implemented to ensure the financial stability of the villagers. Angus emphasized their commitment to preserving the reef for future generations. The author, donning a mask, plunged into the clear waters from the hotel's skiff to witness the vibrant tapestry of seagrass beds and coral reefs. Below, schools of lionfish, sweetlips, damselfish, and wrasses fed among "reef stars," waffle-like grids developed by the Mars corporation, a partner of the Ocean Trust in its efforts to cultivate devastated coral heads and restore fish populations.
Reclaiming the Terrestrial: Wildlife Conservation and Historical Preservation
Amidst the focus on marine conservation, it was easy to overlook the island's terrestrial interior. However, like the reefs, Manda island's wilderness has also borne the brunt of human activity. The inauguration of an industrial port in 2021 and the dredging of the straits, enabling year-round vessel passage, have disrupted the traditional migration routes of elephants and large grazing animals between the mainland and Manda. Without elephants, grasslands transformed into impenetrable acacia scrub, severely impacting the island's biodiversity. For the past fifteen years, Manda Bay Lodge and its philanthropic arm, the Manda Conservancy, have collaborated with local and international organizations to protect and manage this ecosystem. A 687-hectare buffer zone has been established in the island's northeast to safeguard its remaining fragment of endangered East African forest. This area is now grazed by a resident herd of Cape buffalo, left stranded when the island became isolated. Lacking a natural freshwater source, these buffalo would have perished years ago were it not for the intervention of the lodge, which utilizes desalination plants for water, and the conservancy. They provide food and water to the buffalo, critical grazers that help control the scrub. The hope is that once pastures are re-established, the buffalo will become entirely self-sufficient. On the author's final day on Manda, Caragh and Andy Roberts from the lodge, along with Edward Brooks, director of the Manda Conservancy, joined for a safari. Brooks was tasked with coordinating all environmental projects to protect this vital ecosystem. They traversed the scrub and coastal forest, home to the island's buffalo and a surprising array of wildlife, despite the scarcity of fresh water. Some species, like the dik-dik, can subsist solely on plants, while others rely on waterholes that form during the wet season, their populations dwindling as these dry up. Although leopards and hyenas remained elusive (being mostly nocturnal), yellow baboons and vervet monkeys were spotted darting into the dense bush at their approach. Dik-diks, meanwhile, froze in place, attempting to camouflage themselves. Andy then halted the vehicle beside ancient, 300-year-old baobab trees, towering like timeless sentinels above the acacias. These marked the entrance to an ancient Swahili settlement, rediscovered only in the 1960s. Pottery found at the Manda ruins dates back to the 9th century, and the site exhibits connections to the Persian Gulf, evidenced by decorative thumbprints on cornices and carved niches. In addition to the standard coral rag used in construction, the site's square bricks bear the characteristics of Sohar in Oman, suggesting their use as ballast in trading dhows. Wandering through these historic and evocative ruins at dusk, with only the bulbul's call breaking the silence, was an extraordinary experience. The settlement had largely been forgotten since its rediscovery, hidden beneath thick lianas and weeds. However, over the past four years, Brooks' team, in partnership with the National Museums of Kenya (NMK), has been clearing the undergrowth to mitigate erosion and prevent the loss of this crucial cultural heritage. Professor Frederick Manthi, director of antiquities, sites, and monuments at the NMK, had earlier informed the author that the discovery of this site illuminated the existence of a culture and society far older than previously believed, underscoring its significance to Kenyan heritage and identity. Brooks' team is establishing an archaeological program with the NMK, enabling Kenyan students to delve into their cultural history and share their findings with local communities and visitors through educational tourism. The Jeep tour concluded at the island's highest point. Beneath a sprawling thorn tree, they savored sundowners and samosas, with a view of distant Shela on Lamu Island. Its iconic 50-meter-high Amu dunes symbolize the region's deep connection to the sea, acting as a natural barrier against winds and waves for the community. Brooks affirmed, "This is a fragile Eden. For the landscape to endure, the community must be central to all our endeavors. When local villages become custodians of marine reserves, when archaeological sites are cleared by Kenyan research teams, and when traditional knowledge guides conservation practices, that's when magic unfolds, and our work becomes sustainable." As they watched the islands merge with the setting sun, the author reflected on Manda Bay Lodge's delicate balance: providing unique access to an extraordinary place while maintaining a minimal footprint, ensuring that this fragile ecosystem retains the wild, untainted character that initially drew visitors. This intricate balance is one that the entire archipelago must maintain as more visitors arrive, a prospect that the author viewed with increased optimism, having witnessed the valuable efforts underway to preserve these islands.
Essential Visitor Information for Lamu
For seamless travel to the Lamu archipelago, direct flights are available from London Heathrow to Nairobi's Jomo Kenyatta International Airport via British Airways and Kenya Airways, typically taking around nine hours. From Nairobi, local airline Safarilink offers an 80-minute flight from Wilson Airport to Manda Airport on Manda Island. Once in the archipelago, dhows are the primary mode of transport and can be chartered from Lamu Island for various excursions, from sunset cruises to multi-day voyages. The NaiSabah, a spacious, wind and solar-powered former Omani pearling vessel, is ideal for larger groups, with bookings contributing to local conservation efforts. Another elegant option is the Tusitiri, a rebuilt jahazi capable of hosting up to 12 guests and eight crew members. Dining options on Manda Island include Nyla's Guest House and Kitchen, accessible only by water taxi through the mangroves, which serves memorable Italian, Ethiopian, and Somalian specialties. Accommodation choices abound, from Kiwayu Safaris' bandas and exclusive rentals at The Baobabs of Kitangani and Kiwayu Camp, to Mike's Camp with its "rough-luxe" vibe and stunning beachfront location. Manda Bay Lodge on Manda Island is renowned for its exceptional service and eco-conscious design, featuring 22 bandas along a mangrove channel and private beach. For a more resort-like experience, The Majlis offers air-conditioned rooms, multiple pools, and a new spa pavilion. In Shela on Lamu Island, Peponi remains a popular spot for cocktails, while The Moon Houses provide luxurious private villas with chefs and bespoke service. For an overnight stay in Nairobi en route to Lamu, The Social House offers a lively atmosphere near Wilson Airport, complete with a rooftop bar, courtyard restaurant, and a bustling pool. For those interested in the conservation efforts across the islands, resources are available through the Lamu Conservation Trust, Lamu Environment Foundation, and the Manda Conservancy.
